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Thread: cam for f22b2

  1. #1
    A_D
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    cam for f22b2

    hey i was wondering what would be a good aftermarket cam for an f22b2
    i'm not sure who makes good cams and how exactly to read or interpet the cam grades and stuff i read in other threads like 420/420 and weird shit like that. sorry for the newb ass post but your help would be much appreciated. thanks

  2. #2
    <94 EX>
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    Look for a mild cam that is made from a Billet core. Regrinds are ok, but they are hit and miss as far as quality goes. There are a ton of cam producing companies, but only a few make them from a billet core.

    You will want an ecu to match. When all is said and done, you are looking at around $800 - $1000 for everything installed. The ideal situation is to have a port and polished head to go with it. Then you are climbing into H22 territory.

    I have done a SOHC install, and it was pretty straighforward. If you dont know the following terms and conditions, dont try it yourself:

    TDC
    Feeler gauge
    zip ties on the intake rocker arms
    cam seals
    crank pulley bolt/rotation

    I lost .1 seconds in the 1/4 mile on my 95 SI with a reground cam and new ecu. Not that impressive for $750.

  3. #3
    JDM BLAH! ZigenBallz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by <94 EX>
    Look for a mild cam that is made from a Billet core. Regrinds are ok, but they are hit and miss as far as quality goes. There are a ton of cam producing companies, but only a few make them from a billet core.

    You will want an ecu to match. When all is said and done, you are looking at around $800 - $1000 for everything installed.

    I lost .1 seconds in the 1/4 mile on my 95 SI with a reground cam and new ecu. Not that impressive for $750.
    you are probably looking at $800-1000 just for an F22 cam ground from billet...it's not that common in the Accord world... I have never heard of anyone running a billet core cam in an F22...

    I think even Bisi runs a regrind...

    regrinds are much much more common and aren't really all that hit or miss if you know what you want.... they will usually run you from $90-$350ish...

    but yeah basically any company that does Honda cam work can regrind your cam...
    Here's the thread about my F22 regrind...it's for an F22A1 but can still be applied to the F22B2 non vtec... you've probably already read it though...

    Honestly though AD... and keep in mind I'm not trying to be a dick by any means... If the specs like .420/.420 are foreign to you, then you should read up a bit on general cam theory and then people's specific setups/specs before you even consider delving into a new cam...

    hey 94ex what cam made you lose .1 seconds on the D16? company name & specs please...and what ECU???
    Last edited by ZigenBallZ; November 18th, 2003 at 10:11 AM.
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  4. #4
    <94 EX>
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZigenBallz
    hey 94ex what cam made you lose .1 seconds on the D16? company name & specs please...and what ECU???
    Gude cam and ecu. 8200 RPM redline (via MSD 6AL w/3 step limiter). I gained 1 MPH in my trap speed also (89.5MPH).

    Best time with Nitto's with open header was 15.1 @ 92.9 MPH at SIR.

    Overall the car had:

    Gude cam+ecu
    AEM CAI
    JG TB
    DC header
    Tanabe exhaust
    Centerforce clutch
    MSD 6AL w/8200 rpm limiter
    Magnecors (whoopie doo)

    Anyway, that's it. The cam install was easier than my rear sway bar! ::unsure::

  5. #5
    <94 EX>
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    BTW: I would never use Gude again. Their service sucked so bad. They lost all future business with me. Product was ok, but overpriced.

  6. #6
    JDM BLAH! ZigenBallz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by <94 EX>
    Gude cam and ecu. 8200 RPM redline (via MSD 6AL w/3 step limiter). I gained 1 MPH in my trap speed also (89.5MPH).

    Best time with Nitto's with open header was 15.1 @ 92.9 MPH at SIR.

    Overall the car had:

    Gude cam+ecu
    AEM CAI
    JG TB
    DC header
    Tanabe exhaust
    Centerforce clutch
    MSD 6AL w/8200 rpm limiter
    Magnecors (whoopie doo)

    Anyway, that's it. The cam install was easier than my rear sway bar! ::unsure::
    At first I was a little leery of your cam & ecu statement... but after hearing that it was Gude parts... I can easily believe it... gude isn't really known as top notch stuff...The extremely limited amount I've heard about Gude ECU's says that they are hardly modified over stock... they have fairly odd cam specs also...that I could never get Bill to clarify at all... Gude is shady thru & thru in my book.

    How many times did you run the car after the cam & ecu? Because I know that after my regrind I had to change the way I launch a bit... is it possible that you just didn't have enough time with the new setup to get it to work for you?

    EDIT: I was going to ask if you ever tried a different P28 but I'd guess you sent your core to Gude...
    Last edited by ZigenBallZ; November 18th, 2003 at 01:05 PM.
    DC Sports rules!!!
    HKS drools...

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    BLAH!!!!!!!! ::

  7. #7
    <94 EX>
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZigenBallz
    How many times did you run the car after the cam & ecu? Because I know that after my regrind I had to change the way I launch a bit... is it possible that you just didn't have enough time with the new setup to get it to work for you?

    EDIT: I was going to ask if you ever tried a different P28 but I'd guess you sent your core to Gude...
    The problem with my statement is that I had a lot of things going on with the car at the same time. I had an AEM cam gear that I was trying to tune, I ran for the first time with slicks and open exhaust…so those were all determining factors in my ľ mile times.

    When I came out to Phoenix from Seattle, I ran the car at Firebird in street trim (no slicks or open exhaust) and it pulled a 15.4 all night long.

    I think you have a point. The gain could have been more from the cam and ecu. However, they say every .1 second loss is = to about a 20HP gain. So, the cam really wasn’t too bad I guess. I really think the stock head was limiting the flow. With the AEM CAI in place, the VTEC changeover was monstrous. I mean, it was loud enough to turn the heads of the elderly. That tells me that the lift and duration was vastly improved on both the intake and exhaust side of the lobes. I dunno. The car is gone now…

    As for the core, that was a huge problem I had with GUDE. They screwed me by leaving me out to hang without telling me about a “problem with all their cams” for over a month. I had to call them 5 times long distance to get the 411. After a long drawn out battle, they sent me the cam and ecu, and I kept my stock parts. Bill wouldn’t return my calls or get on the phone.

  8. #8
    A_D
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    [QUOTE=ZigenBallz]

    Honestly though AD... and keep in mind I'm not trying to be a dick by any means... If the specs like .420/.420 are foreign to you, then you should read up a bit on general cam theory and then people's specific setups/specs before you even consider delving into a new cam...

    QUOTE]

    well, can you explain it or point me in a direction of a thread/article that will?

  9. #9
    <94 EX>
    Guest
    well, can you explain it or point me in a direction of a thread/article that will?
    While I hate domestics, this mustang site has some good cam info for you. The concept is basically the same no matter what the vehicle. Too bad the Japanese cars are about 5 years ahead of the US automakers in basic top-end technology. ::unsure::

  10. #10
    A_D
    Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by <94 EX>
    While I hate domestics, this mustang site has some good cam info for you. The concept is basically the same no matter what the vehicle. Too bad the Japanese cars are about 5 years ahead of the US automakers in basic top-end technology. ::unsure::
    282/282 = is the advertised duration of the camshaft in degrees of crankshaft rotation. Note the crankshaft will spin 2 times for every camshaft revolution or 720* for every 360* of camshaft revolution. Advertised duration varies by manufacturer; therefore, it is less desirable on itís own than to know duration at .050" of lift. Fordís camshafts list advertised duration at .003".

    the bold part doesn't make sense to me
    the rest does

    does that mean that the cam spins 282 degrees when the crank spins 282 degrees? but that wouldn't make sense because of the 2 spins of the crank for ever 1 spin of the cam (intake and exhaust so the piston needs to go up and down twice, which would spin the crank twice)

  11. #11
    Young Tuner accord>prelude's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by A_D View Post
    282/282 = is the advertised duration of the camshaft in degrees of crankshaft rotation. Note the crankshaft will spin 2 times for every camshaft revolution or 720* for every 360* of camshaft revolution. Advertised duration varies by manufacturer; therefore, it is less desirable on itís own than to know duration at .050" of lift. Fordís camshafts list advertised duration at .003".

    the bold part doesn't make sense to me
    the rest does

    does that mean that the cam spins 282 degrees when the crank spins 282 degrees? but that wouldn't make sense because of the 2 spins of the crank for ever 1 spin of the cam (intake and exhaust so the piston needs to go up and down twice, which would spin the crank twice)

    282 intake 282 exhuast in degrees
    F22b1 powered with: Bisimoto Stage 2 Cam/AEM Cam Gear/345cc Injectors/ Apexi CAI w/ K&N Filter/Prelude TB/F23 Intake Manifold/Trust (Greddy lol) header/Midas made test pipe (shhh)/Apexi WS2 Exhaust/Hondata s200

    Second Accord, First Love

  12. #12
    DOHC VTEC Nusdogg's Avatar
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    Can't go wrong with Bisimoto Cams. He's got quality regrind cams.

    Quote Originally Posted by JSA Motors View Post
    The H22 wakes up the Accord in the same way a set of secondaries did to your father's Oldsmobile.

  13. #13
    Young Tuner accord>prelude's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by accord>prelude View Post
    282 intake 282 exhuast in degrees
    what that means is that the cam holds the valve open for 282* (degress) of its single rotation
    so a 360* cam would mean the vavle would be open the whole time 90* would mean the valve was open for a quarter turn of the camshaft and 180* half ect, ect.


    haha well Nus i will see hopefully this weekend if my cam gear gets here.
    is it a pain to adjust the valves (lash) after the install or did you just drop it in and run?
    how long did it take you?
    F22b1 powered with: Bisimoto Stage 2 Cam/AEM Cam Gear/345cc Injectors/ Apexi CAI w/ K&N Filter/Prelude TB/F23 Intake Manifold/Trust (Greddy lol) header/Midas made test pipe (shhh)/Apexi WS2 Exhaust/Hondata s200

    Second Accord, First Love

  14. #14
    DOHC VTEC Nusdogg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by accord>prelude View Post
    what that means is that the cam holds the valve open for 282* (degress) of its single rotation
    so a 360* cam would mean the vavle would be open the whole time 90* would mean the valve was open for a quarter turn of the camshaft and 180* half ect, ect.


    haha well Nus i will see hopefully this weekend if my cam gear gets here.
    is it a pain to adjust the valves (lash) after the install or did you just drop it in and run?
    how long did it take you?
    No, it's very easy adjust the valve. 0.10 intake and 0.12 exhaust. I'm already done re-adjusting my valves on the stock cam that I threw back in on my SOHC. lol Took me around 30-40 mins. Just time and patience.

    The Lobes on the Bisi Cam are biggers so, adjusting the valves is a must. Once you're done with everything with the car running, it'll click due to the Big Lobes on the cam which is normal. My buddie's D16z6 Comp Cam clicks too.

    Quote Originally Posted by JSA Motors View Post
    The H22 wakes up the Accord in the same way a set of secondaries did to your father's Oldsmobile.

  15. #15
    Young Tuner accord>prelude's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nusdogg View Post
    No, it's very easy adjust the valve. 0.10 intake and 0.12 exhaust. I'm already done re-adjusting my valves on the stock cam that I threw back in on my SOHC. lol Took me around 30-40 mins. Just time and patience.

    The Lobes on the Bisi Cam are biggers so, adjusting the valves is a must. Once you're done with everything with the car running, it'll click due to the Big Lobes on the cam which is normal. My buddie's D16z6 Comp Cam clicks too.
    ok cool I've never done it before and I just figured my dad could help me with that. The rest is just pulling the rocker assembly off right? or did you have to take the a/c and P/s and Alternator off to get to the tensioner? Thanks for the info!

    like the valves tapping on the pistons click? or some other noise?
    F22b1 powered with: Bisimoto Stage 2 Cam/AEM Cam Gear/345cc Injectors/ Apexi CAI w/ K&N Filter/Prelude TB/F23 Intake Manifold/Trust (Greddy lol) header/Midas made test pipe (shhh)/Apexi WS2 Exhaust/Hondata s200

    Second Accord, First Love

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