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Thread: DIY: 5 lug conversion

  1. #1
    you may call me ALLAN kuyaalland's Avatar
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    DIY: 5 lug conversion

    Thanks to some of the original threads on this conversion, I managed to do extensive research and have an up to date DIY for you here.

    Original Swap DIY’s:
    ROH conversion with dual piston caliper DIY from Accordinglydone:
    http://www.accordinglydone.com/forum...623#post243623
    5lug swap from Accordinglydone:
    http://www.accordinglydone.com/forum...ead.php?t=1292
    5lug swap from HondaSociety:
    http://hondasociety.com/board/showthread.php?t=126931

    Useful additional information
    NSX/Legend caliper swap info:
    http://hondasociety.com/board/showthread.php?t=126560
    11.2” Rotor upgrade from CD5Tuner:
    http://cd5tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=4
    CB7 5 lug swap 6th gen V6 knuckles
    http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=146386

    Just wanted to have an up-to-date DIY with up-to-date pics.



    Reasons for doing this swap:
    - No more pesky fixed rotor (Hub-over-rotor) setup
    - “safer wheel mounting” with the extra stud (so ive read. Lol)
    - OEM bigger/better brake upgrades
    - Bigger wheel selection (supposedly)




    Parts
    Front setup
    1. Knuckle
    > 95-98 Honda Odyssey
    > 98-02 Honda Accord V6 (only the ones branded S5 on the splash guard)
    > 97-01 Honda Prelude (**must drill larger hole for balljoint**)

    2. Caliper
    > 94-97 Honda Accord Wagon
    > 92-96 Honda Prelude VTEC (H22)
    > 97-01 Honda Prelude
    > 92-95 Acura Legend L/LS coupe (dual piston)
    > 94-95 Acura Legend GS sedan (dual piston)
    > 97-01 Acura Integra type R
    > 91 Acura NSX (dual piston)

    3. Caliper bracket
    > 23T (single piston Legends, Integra type r, 92-95 Prelude)
    > 25T (Accords)

    4. Pads
    > Obviously whichever caliper you choose from
    5. Rotors (or any other rotors with same specs, I cross-referenced other accords/crv’s on brembo/autozone that match same part numbers too)
    > 95-98 Honda Odyssey
    > 98-02 Honda Accord V6
    > 97-01 Honda Prelude base
    > 97-01 Acura Integra type R
    > 94-97 Honda Accord wagon


    Rear setup
    1. Hub/bearing assembly
    > 97-01 Honda Prelude
    2. Calipers
    > 94-97 Honda Accord EX
    3. Rotors
    > 98-02 Honda Accord V6
    > 02-06 Acura RSX

    4. Pads
    > 94-97 Honda Accord EX
    5. Rear hub nut
    > 92-97 Mazda 626 (*will not need to use the oem washer. please refer to pics*)

    Misc.
    > 5x114.3 wheels maximum +42 offset
    > 20 lug nuts
    > Stainless Steel brake lines (optional)
    > (8) rotor screws




    Instructions
    **This is for EX accords (rear disks). For LX/DX, you would need the EX rear complete trailing arms, EX 1” master cylinder, prop valve, etc.**

    Front:
    Raise the front of the car on jackstands. Remove the front wheels. Remove the (2) 17mm bolts securing the brake caliper to the knuckle.

    Remove 14mm banjo bolt from brake line, drain fluid into container, then pull off the caliper and set it aside. Do not attempt to drink brake fluid. Remove the (2) 10mm bolts securing the brake line to the knuckle.

    Using impact wrench or breaker bar, remove the spindle nut from the axle. Remove cotter pins from the lower ball joint, upper ball joint, and tie rod end castle nuts. Remove all three 17mm castle nuts. Pop tie rod end out of knuckle, lightly tap with a BFH if necessary.

    Remove upper ball joint from knuckle by pressing upper control arm upwards, use BFH at your discretion. Pull knuckle out of lower control arm, may require the BFH again. Pull knuckle off of axle, being careful not to pull inner axle bearings out of the race.

    Lay knuckle down on floor, studs facing outwards. Remove the (4) 14mm bolts from the knuckle. Save these. Tap bearing/hub out of the knuckle. (If you have a 95-97 Accord, test fitment of new bearings in knuckle, if they don't fit, buy the above listed knuckles.) Assemble new bearing and hub together.

    Place hub studs-down on cardboard, wood, or matting to protect the studs. Align new bearing over the hub, and press it on as far as you can by hand. Don't give yourself a hernia in the process. Place a piece of sturdy wood (i.e. 2x4) over the bearing. Whack repeatedly with BFH until hub and bearing are seated completely together. Get the knuckle and place it over the bearing, it should slide on fairly easily. Take the (4) 14mm bolts and bolt the knuckle and bearing together.

    Install the knuckle back on the car by reversing the steps to remove it. Be sure to tighten all nuts to spec and replace all cotter pins on castle nuts. Install new rotor on the hub by using 2 rotor screws. Take the new assembled caliper and slide it over the rotor. Be sure the banjo fitting aligns with the raised tabs on the caliper. (For Legend calipers, this means you have to use the caliper marked R on the left, and the one marked L on the right.) Mount the caliper on the knuckle using the (2) 17mm bolts. Replace the (2) 10mm bolts securing the brake line to the knuckle. Mount the banjo fitting using the 14mm banjo bolt.

    Repeat for opposite side of the car.

    Rear:
    Raise the rear of the car on jackstands. Remove the rear wheels. Remove the (2) 14mm bolts securing the brake caliper to the knuckle. Remove 14mm banjo bolt from brake line, drain fluid into container, then pull off the caliper and set it aside. Again, do not attempt to drink brake fluid. If you're thirsty, go get a beer!

    Using impact wrench or breaker bar, remove the spindle nut from the spindle. Pull off the assembled hub and rotor. Place new hub over spindle. Replace spindle nut on spindle, being sure to torque to spec. There may be 2-3 threads of the nut still showing. This is normal, and is safe as long as you have the nut properly tightened. Place new rotor over hub, and affix using rotor screws. Place caliper back over rotor, and attach it to the knuckle with the (2) 14mm bolts. Replace banjo fitting and 14mm banjo bolt.

    Repeat for opposite side of the car.

    Bleed your brakes using standard procedure, and enjoy.
    **I have read for the rears, to use an aftermarket stub shaft nut because it is shorter in length, so it can be tightened down more than the OEM nut. However, I have read from multiple users that using the OEM nut is fine just as long as it is tightened and torqued properly.**

    Edit 7/11/17:
    A friend messaged me questioning the rear hub nut and for peace of mind, he bought 97 Mazda 626 nuts and provided me with pics to update this thread. Also updated image hosting site because photobucket charges for hosting on 3rd party sites/forums now
    Last edited by kuyaalland; July 11th, 2017 at 04:04 AM.

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  2. #2
    you may call me ALLAN kuyaalland's Avatar
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    RESERVED for MY PARTS LIST. i have collected all the parts except for the wheels ;] waiting for them to come in. also reserving space for my own pics of the install.


    My Parts
    Front setup
    1. Knuckle
    > 95 Honda Odyssey
    2. Caliper
    > 93 Acura Legend LS coupe (dual piston)
    3. Caliper bracket
    > 23T
    4. Pads
    > 93 Acura Legend LS coupe
    5. Rotors
    > 95 Honda Odyssey

    Rear setup
    1. Hub/bearing assembly
    > 97 Honda Prelude
    2. Calipers
    > 94 Honda Accord EX
    3. Rotors
    > 02 Acura RSX
    4. Pads
    > 94 Honda Accord EX

    Misc.
    > Goodridge Stainless Steel Lines (for ABS equipped accords)
    > 18x9.5 +22 wheels
    > Skunk2 EF upper control arms (for fitting wider wheels)








    Last edited by kuyaalland; July 11th, 2017 at 03:53 AM.

    My Build Thread Here
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  3. #3
    you may call me ALLAN kuyaalland's Avatar
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    RESERVED for INSTALL PICS

    Fronts


    ^Took everything off in one piece. Lol knuckle/caliper/rotor/upper control arm

    ^Then put the ody knuckles on with the legend calipers +23t bracket

    ^Stainless steel lines

    ^Lines + EF upper control arms


    Rears


    ^took off caliper and bracket. then used an impact wrench to take out the hub nut. pulled off the assembly.

    ^if the inner race from the old bearing is still on there, take a dremel to cut it off, but be careful not to scar the shaft, if you do, just sand it smooth with a high grit sandpaper then lube it up. "cut a diagonal line and take a chisel to expand the crack" - Balwin


    ^polishing my shaft

    ^should look like this when the race is gone.

    ^installed the prelude hub assembly and used the stock accord nut torqued down to specs.


    **if you chose to use the MAZDA 626 stub nut, you will not need the oem washer as the flange on the MAZDA nut is the same size as the oem washer**
    Refer to the following pictures (provided by Angel Rivera):


    ^Here is the OEM nut vs. the Mazda Nut

    ^Mazda 626 nut installed over the newly installed Prelude hub

    And continuing with my install pics:

    ^installed the rsx rotors

    ^reinstalled the caliper and bracket

    ^put on the wheel cus i was excited
    Last edited by kuyaalland; July 11th, 2017 at 04:03 AM.

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    you may call me ALLAN kuyaalland's Avatar
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    Finished product


    Last edited by kuyaalland; July 11th, 2017 at 04:06 AM.

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  5. #5
    you may call me ALLAN kuyaalland's Avatar
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    updated 2/25/17

    current setup:






    i've upgraded my fronts to 4 piston Acura RL calipers off the 2005-2008 KB1 (second gen)
    I also used FFC Fat Four Customs RL caliper adapters that are direct bolt ons to the odyssey knuckles. Because of the larger brake calipers, larger rotors are required.
    I used 350z (equipped with brembo brake) rotors, basically the larger version of the 350z rotors that used the brembos and not the regular nissan calipers.
    Summary:


    Updated front setup: 2/25/17
    my exact setup

    - 2005 Acura RL front calipers
    - FFC RL caliper adapters
    - 2007 Nissan 350z Rotors (from the brembos) 12.8"
    ***Note you have to bore out a larger diameter hole for the 350z rotors to fit over the odyssey hub***
    the odyssey rotors have a center bore of 70.1mm and the 350z rotors have a center bore of 68mm. So you would need to enlarge the center bore about just under 3mm
    Last edited by kuyaalland; July 11th, 2017 at 04:08 AM.

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    Turtlin I drink V8's Avatar
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    NICE! This is prolly the best 5 lug info ive read. Well detailed & organized. +REP

  7. #7
    you may call me ALLAN kuyaalland's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by I drink V8 View Post
    NICE! This is prolly the best 5 lug info ive read. Well detailed & organized. +REP
    Thanks. Took me several months to research while gathering parts as well. I read and read everything on the subject and typed up a few papers on the conversion lol.
    I like writing things up. My fav was the coilover write up I did awhile back.

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  8. #8
    sorry ocifer... slowrider87's Avatar
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    Allan the DIY write-up God! Awesome info... Rep x2
    I don't mind being knocked off, ridiculed, made to feel minuscule, When you consider the source it's kinda pitiful.
    Quote Originally Posted by vaginactrl View Post
    Never confuse education with intelligence

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    *Street Spec Kustoms Rep* baggedminiz's Avatar
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    Awesome man, i've been looking into doing this and this is by far the best write up i've ever seen!!!!

    Bookmarked!!!!! STICKY THIS SHIT!!!

    Rides:
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  10. #10
    Mr.... ???? accordracing91's Avatar
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    Be careful mentionning 98-02 V6 CG knuckles, not all of them fit. The only ones you can use are the ones branded S5 on the splash guard.

    Just in case you wantz proof : http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=146386

  11. #11
    you may call me ALLAN kuyaalland's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by accordracing91 View Post
    Be careful mentionning 98-02 V6 CG knuckles, not all of them fit. The only ones you can use are the ones branded S5 on the splash guard.

    Just in case you wantz proof : http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=146386
    Good call. Will revise when I get home. I skipped the cb7 forums in my research. But will go over them tonight and add accordingly.

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  12. #12
    AT Newbie 95halx's Avatar
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    Ok so I did my 5 lug conversion and did it the cheap way for now, until I can do it with the rear disc. On my 95 accord lx I did.
    Front knuckles- 95 odyssey
    Front rotors- 97 crv same as odyssey
    Front caliper- 97 crv
    Front bracket- 23T
    Rear drums- 97 crv
    Rear hub bearings- 01 prelude
    Total cost for my conversion believe it or not was $210
    But I do at least think I need to swap out the master cylinder the braking pressure kinda sucks compared to before with a 15 inch wheel and drilled and slotted rotors.
    What is the best master to swap in?

    And just wanted to say that all of these 5 lug conversions say that max wheel offset is a +42mm I went with a 215/40/18 and a 18x8 +55mm oem 2011 accord coupe wheel it clears and never rubs anything but its so close you can't even run a clip on wheel weight on the inside.

    I want to post pics but not sure how to get them on here?

  13. #13
    Mr.... ???? accordracing91's Avatar
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    A bigger Master won't fix your braking issue. You were running a good 4lug brake set-up to old rusted 5lug brakes. You will need new brakes, rear discs and a DA 40/40 Prop valve to notice a difference.

    To post pics you can use www.imageshack.us or www.photobucket.com and to host them, post the link between these brackets, [img] [/img] .

  14. #14
    Haggard 96 ex ChiefElijah's Avatar
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    HOLY CRAP!!!! This is an amazing write up Allan!!! REP xINFINITY!!!!! You're the man homie!!

  15. #15
    AT Newbie 95halx's Avatar
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    Thanks for how to post pics, But there is no rust on the brakes. The drums and rotors were machined by myself. And the person who decided to wreck their cars had just put on new bearings, calipers, ball joints and pads.

    I don't really care about doing the rear disc swap anytime soon just like the car to look good, not trying to impress anyone.

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