Disclaimer: This how-to involves cutting and/or grinding suspension and/or the body of your vehicle. If you feel uncomfortable with this, please have your kit installed by a professional. I take no responsibility for damage caused to your vehicle.
So essentially what you are trying to accomplish by installing a camber kit is the following: Move the upper control away from the car (illustrated below). This will pull out negative camber you have.
Illustration of what a mount-type camber kit should accomplish.
Here is the type of camber kit I selected. It is a rubber busing Ingalls kit from http://www.summitracing.com that adjusts from 1.5deg to 3.0deg. There are a few reasons why I chose the kit I did:
1) My camber reading was around -1.7deg.
2) If I decide to lower my car even more, I have lots of adjustability.
3) I did not want the hassle of messing with ball joints.
4) I wanted to maintain some comfort, so I picked rubber bushings.
5) Ingalls is a quality brand. Do not cheap out on suspension.
My kit of choice.
First thing you want to do is break the nuts free on the existing mounts. The passengers side nuts are located under the fuse box and ABS relay/fuse box so they must first be unbolted. You do this while the car is still on the ground because it is safer; you don't want to have the car fall off the jackstands. It may be hard to actually make the car slip off, but better to be safe then mess up you or your car. They are going to be stuck on there pretty good considering it hasn't been touched in years, so apply some penetrating oil and lightly whack it with a hammer or something first. Also go ahead and break the lugs free at this time. Then proceed to jack up the car and remove the wheel.
These are the mounting nuts.
Next you are going to need to remove the old control arm mounts. You will need 2 14mm box wrenches to loosen the through bolts. Yet again, penetrating oil is your friend. Be careful removing the old mounts; you don't want to place unnecessary stress on the upper ball joint. Also be careful of the hub as it will now move freely and that is a bad thing (tie it to the strut or have a friend hold it). Finish removing those nuts in the engine compartment and pull out the old mounts.
Removing the old mounts.
Close-up of the piece you are after.
You now need to install the new adjustable mounts. You will find it easier to install them onto the control arm first (with the elongated opening facing the ball joint) and then into the engine compartment. Just tighten the through bolts hand-tight. Now you must place the suspension under load to tighten the through bolts since they have rubber bushings. If you bought poly bushings I don't think you have to do this. To do this you must jack up the lower arm until it almost lifts the car off the jackstands. Crank down the through bolts with your box wrenches. You many now relieve the load on the suspension. Slide the control arm to the point of least correction by pushing the control arm all the way in and tighten the adjusting nuts.
New adjustable mounts bolted into place.
Since you have now offset the control arm outward, it will not have good clearance with the wheel well. You need to do one of 2 things (or maybe both).
1) Grind the control arm down.
2) Cut the wheel well where it will rub.
I chose to grind the control arm since it is easier and I didn't need to make that much clearance. However, depending how much camber adjustment you need, you may have to cut or grind AND cut. I used a heavy hand file.
This is where you will be grinding/filing.
You are going to need to get an alignment now so the shop can adjust the camber. No big rush, but your wheels should now be toed out and it will wear away your tires quicker.