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Thread: FAQ

  1. #1

    General Trouble Shooting & FAQ

    Hey, just decided to make a lil FAQ with questions that I tend to see a lot:
    Service Maintenance Light --
    H22 Swap --
    Turbo Injection --
    LED Conversion --
    S Light Problems --
    ECU Codes --
    ECU Reset --
    Black Headlight Housing DIY --
    DIY Front Grill --
    Suspension FAQs --
    JDM Headlights --
    4th Gen Lip spoilers --
    DIY Grills --
    Rear Disc Brake Conv --
    Common Explanations of Upgrades:
    Cold Air Intake(CAI) vs Warm Air Intake(WAI/Short Ram)
    WAI is great for high-end power, and CAI is great for low-end power. This is the main difference here. CAIs, however, tend to pick up water and grime from the road as you drive, especially on models that place the cone right near the lower wheel well. Once a high-quality exhaust is put on, there is much less of a gap between CAIs and WAIs, as the exhaust/intake combo creates great performance over the entire range.
    I am still debating the pros and cons of this one. If I lived in a less rainy environment, I would definitely go CAI, but since it seems as if it rains every week here, at the exact times I want to drive, I'll likely go with a High Quality WAI. I want some input on companies to go with on this one. Looking for a good smooth pipe with the correct sized holes drilled for MAF, etc.
    Underdrive Pulley
    This is a pretty basic upgrade that lowers the difference between flywheel and wheel horspower. There are two main choices. Some pulleys are basically the same size as the stock one, but are as much as 75% lighter. These have a slightly (SLIGHTLY) lower effect than their smaller brothers. The other type of pulleys are smaller in diameter than stock, and in effect lower the pull on the engine even more along the crank. The problem with this type is that it lowers alternator amperage, compressor efficiency, etc.
    I have decided to keep the accessory performance in my vehicle the same, so I am planning on buying the lighter one that is basically the same size as stock. Input on quality vendors would be appreciated.
    Header & Exhaust
    This is one of the more costly upgrades, rining in at almost a cool grand. A very high-quality exhaust system will have between 2-6psi backpressure with a very high exhaust gas velocity.
    The reason for as high of a velocity as possible is to create as much of a vaccuum, or 'scavenging effect' at the exhaust port as possible. with each cylinder firing, it creates a rush of gas through the header. When the gas pushes by at a high velocity with little turbulence, it creates a vaccuum at the exhaust port. this pulls the gasses out of the cylinder quickly, leaving very little gasses to be trapped in the cylinder, creating essentially a much higher-quality combustion with cleaner air and less residue.
    Bigger pipes are not necessarily better. A good safe range for the KA24DE is between 2.25-2.5". Mandrel bends are a must, as they allow for the smoothest flow of air which results in a higher velocity. One would be advised to find a good, high quality muffler with a straight-through design to keep backpressure as low as possible. Look for perforations in the walls, not protrusions.
    A good set of 4-2-1 or 4-1 headers is fairly easy to come by, but check for quality. A smooth interior symettrical-length model with no sharp bends is perfect. Some headers will remove the catalytic converter within the Altimas.
    Catalytic converters create a LOT of backpressure (bad thing). The problem is, to pass emissions tests, one needs a cat to convert the carbon monoxide and other gasses to cleaner water vapor and carbon dioxide. Here is a good solution. Buy a fairly new catalytic converter (junkyards are great for this, find a late-model economy car that has a good emissions rating). Take your stock muffler apart, so you just have the outer shell (this requires a blowtorch) and place the outer shell around the catalytic converter that you picked up at the junkyard. when you have emissions tests, go to a shop and replace your real muffler with this dummy one. Bingo!
    Valve Body Upgrade
    The valve body basically controls the shifting within an automatic transmission. Generally, the OEM valve body is built for slower shifting, to appeal in drivability for the less-ballsy owners of their vehicles. Replacing and/or recalibrating the valve body is not a new idea by any means, but the technology of today allows for even greater engineering feats within this part.
    The gains seen with this upgrade are 0 . . ZERO horsepower. Do not be fooled into thinking that you will get 5, 10, 20, whatever horsepower from this. The gains, nevertheless, are very impressive in terms of drivability and sheer speed. The usually sluggish shifting in the automatic Altimas become quick and crisp. Some may balk at the thought of spending 400+ dollars on quicker shifting, but the gains indeed are impressive. .3-.5 second quarter mile time improvements are common place, and .6+ second gains are not unheard of.
    I personally am planning on someday doing this upgrade on my own. This should not be taken lightly, however, and the less mechanically inclined among you had better heed this warning: when in doubt, pay someone else to install it for you! Damaging the VB, or incorporating contaminates into the VB system, could destroy your drivetrain.
    (taken from user, Happy, at
    Thanks to Uncle_el for his contributions also....
    If admin could sticky that would be nice. Also feel free to add any other FAQs you feel I missed. Spread da knowledge, yo! ::lol::
    Last edited by SHIFT_this; October 31st, 2004 at 01:21 PM.

  2. #2

  3. #3
    Rear Disc Brake Conv:

    Would admin/mod mind deleting the posts that don't contain anything useful to this faq? Thanks!

  4. #4

    General Trouble Shooting FAQ

    Here are some common problems
    Honda and Acura owners have encountered
    and the solutions to them.


    Engine will not rotate when attempting to start:
    1 starter is bad
    2 battery terminals are corroded
    3 clutch pedal switch not working
    4 automatic transmission park switch not working

    Engine rotates but will not start:
    1 distributor is bad (most common)
    2 fuel pump is bad
    3 worn spark plugs
    4 main relay is bad
    5 ECU is burned out

    Engine idle goes up and down when cold:
    1 idle air control valve is bad

    Engine idle goes up and down when warm :
    1 throttle position sensor is bad
    2 map sensor is bad

    Engine misses at idle speed:

    1 spark plugs are bad
    2 low compression in one cylinder

    Engine has loud ticking at idle:
    1 valves need to be adjusted

    Engine takes oil:
    1 PCV valve is clogged
    2 rings or valve seals are worn
    3 synthic oil was previous run in engine

    Engine electrical system:

    Alternator light fails to go out :
    1 alternator is bad
    2 alternator belt is slipping

    Fuel system:

    Fuel injectors are leaking:
    1 injector O-rings are bad

    Cooling system

    Engine overheats:
    1 head gasket is blown
    2 radiator is plugged
    3 coolant is low
    4 water pump is bad

    Radiator fluid disappears or is filling overflow bottle
    1 head gasket is blown
    2 water pump is bad (will drip)

    Engine never gets warm:
    1 thermostat is frozen open

    Drive train:

    Gears in manual trans donít work
    1 transmission is bad (most common)
    2 shift linkage is jammed

    Car pops out of gear or slips
    1 worn gears (transmission bad)
    2 automatic transmission fluid level is low or the transmission is bad

    Engine clunks on acceleration or deceleration
    1 broken engine or transmission mounts

    Clicking noise on turns:
    1 CV joints are worn (replace axle)

    Car vibrates when driving
    1 tires are not balanced
    2 axle is bent

    Steering wheel vibrates back and forth at low speeds:
    1 front brake rotors need to be turned (only if braking)
    2 speed sensitive steering pump is bad

    Automatic transmission will not move out of park:
    1 Transmission control unit is bad (most common)
    2 Brake pedal release not working

    Loud howling at highway speed:
    1 front or rear wheel bearings are bad
    2 you have a beagle in the back seat

    General problems:

    Automatic seat belt retractors donít work properly:
    1 belt warning control burned out
    2 door latch switch is bad

    [b]Speedometer doesnít work properly:
    1 speed sensor on transmission is bad

    [b]Headlamps wonít come up ( Accord ):
    1 light switch on column is bad

    [b]Power window won't work:
    1 86-89 accord, relay box burned out (most common)
    2 90-97 accord, master switch burned out
    3 all models, window motor burned out

  5. #5
    there are only 3 taillights for the 4th gen accord:

    1. 90/91 taillights (both coupe and sedan are the same, and thus aftermarket tails for 90/91 fit both)
    2. 92/93 coupe (there seem to be no aftermarket tails for the 92/93 coupe)
    3. 92/93 sedan (aftermarket tails for 92/93 are for sedan only)

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